I read an account recently of a boat trip similar to the one we took from Katha to Mandalay. It was described as “not to be missed…and not to be repeated.” That is exactly how I feel about it. I had visions of a leisurely multi-day trip down the Ayerwaddy River past scenic countryside and rustic but quaint villages in a semi-comfortable craft, or something like that. The reality was a bit different. The boat that would take us down the river arrived about 6 p.m., a couple hours later than scheduled (it is a pattern here.) It was a … Continue reading →

I’ve noted before that being in Myanmar is like stepping back in time. We were last here three years ago and we wondered how much would be changed now that the country has “opened up.” (It wasn’t exactly closed before, in spite of the prevailing narrative.) The short answer is: not much. Yangon still has that decaying colonial-era atmosphere, the streets are still seething with people and lined with micro-merchants selling everything imaginable, and on side streets and back alleys craftsmen continue to make by hand everyday things we often take for granted. In one shop we passed you could … Continue reading →